Thursday, May 19, 2011

Perfect Day in Tokyo

Only in Japan can stormtroopers be so kawaii. This is a wonderfully creative video that manages to capture my ideal day in Tokyo. It always cheers me up after a long day.

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Not Your Father's State Department Store

The Moscow ГУМ (GUM) is a beautiful building facing the Kremlin on Red Square. Previously the State Department store, it was one of the only stores in the Soviet Union that did not suffer from shortages of goods, and lines often crossed the square.  GUM is currently a shopping mall owned by Bosco di Ciliegi, a Russian luxury company that designs the Russian Olympic uniforms.  The building looks like an elaborate gingerbread house, lit up with thousands of tiny lights at night.  A few years ago, GUM opened Gastronome № 1, one of my favorite food stores. It lacks the grand architecture and chandeliers of Eliseevsky on Tverskaya, but there is no comparison when it comes to the food.  GUM is one of my favorite stops in Moscow, a warm welcoming break from bad weather. The window displays and unique seasonal decor never disappoint.

GUM at Night

Talk about Throwback Fashion

Sakura Blooms in GUM

Sakura in Full Plastic Bloom

Monday, May 9, 2011

Afternoon in Tallinn

I am known as an over planner when I travel.  I pour over guidebooks and search every internet resource I can find, and usually have a detailed itinerary before I get on a plane.  The exception was a memorable afternoon in Tallinn.  I was in Helsinki for work, and we managed to finish our meetings early on a Friday afternoon.  A few colleagues suggested that we hop a ferry for Tallinn, a short two hour trip.  I don't remember which line we took on that day, but I have used the Silja Line for trips between Stockholm and Helsinki, and highly recommend it.  We were completely unprepared for our afternoon, but we followed the crowds to the old town, and had a lovely few hours wandering around.  The old town was a wonderful maze of small streets with tall white steeples that were particularly beautiful against the bright blue sky.

Market Hall Helsinki

Old Town Tallinn

Old Town Tallinn

Old Town Tallinn

Old Town Tallinn

View of Old Town Tallin from the Ferry

Helsinki Harbor after 10pm

Helsinki Harbor after 10pm

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Georgian Feasts

I love traveling to the Southern Caucasus, to include Georgia, Azerbaijan, and Armenia. If I had to pick one place though, it would be Georgia.  From the mountains to the Black Sea coast, it is a beautiful country.  The most memorable thing about Georgia, is probably a combination of the warm people and the amazing food and wine.  A Georgian Feast, or supra in Georgian, is a quite an event.  The festivities are led by a Tamada who acts as a toastmaster.  Even in less formal settings, my dining partners have always designated the most charismatic individual as the tamada.  I have experienced long lunches that have lasted almost into the next meal.  I have never been to a bad restaurant in Georgia, some of the most unique experiences have been small remote places in the countryside.  Tbilisi is full of amazing restaurants, and most of the ones I have been to have amazing views of the old city, or the Mt'k'vari River.  The Hotel Kopala restaurant is said to be a favorite of President Saakashvili.


View of Old Tbilisi from the Hotel Kopala Restaurant

View of Tbilisi from the Hotel Kopala Restaurant


Preparing for a Supra at Hotel Kopala

View of the Mt'k'vari River from a Tbilisi Restaurant


Georgian food is full of vegetarian options, and many dishes are uniquely walnut based. Georgian cuisine has a very distinct taste based on the mix of spices, often including coriander, fenugreek leaves, and  marigold.  I have tried to make recreations of my favorite dishes, but never with the same result.  In fact, some Georgian friends have mentioned that their own cooking was never the same when cooking abroad.  


A Georgian Meal in Tbilisi

A Georgian Meal in Tbilisi


Sunday, May 1, 2011

The Tower and the Moon

Growing up in Tokyo, I have always loved the city at night.  My favorite place was the roof of our building.  We were lucky to have a wonderful view of the surrounding area.  I am always surprised to visit one of the city's many observatories and see the ever changing skyline.  My old building is now surrounded by skyscrapers.  When I was growing up, there were only a handful of tall buildings in the whole area.  The latest addition to the skyline is the Tokyo Sky Tree, replacing Tokyo Tower as the city's broadcasting tower.  

My hometown, with Tokyo Sky Tree in the background

As a child, I loved visiting Tokyo Tower for a great view of the city.  These days, my favorite place to see the city is the  Tokyo City View, the observation deck on the 52nd floor of the Mori Building in Roppongi Hills.  Although the admission is 1,500 yen, it can be purchased in advance in local convenience store for 1,200 yen.  You can pay an additional fee to visit the Sky Deck rooftop.  Admission to the City View is included with purchase of a ticket to the Mori Art Museum.  I always watch for exhibitions that I want to see at the museum.  Combining the two attractions is worth the cost of a ticket.

The Tower and the City

The Tower and the Bay

The Tower and the Moon

During my last visit to Tokyo City View, I spent at least an hour watching the sun set by Tokyo Tower. I was shocked to walk around to the other side of the observatory and to see Fuji-san.  The sight is rare, even in the mornings.  I don't think many others expected this either, because the Fuji side of the building was almost empty.  Unfortunately my camera battery was almost dead, and I only got one blurry shot.

Fuji-san and the City

The tragic earthquake and tsunami on March 11, and ongoing problems at the Fukushima Dai-ichi Nuclear Power Plant have resulted in power saving measures that have darkened the Tokyo skyline.  This incredible video shows the slightly darkened, but still vibrant city.