Snow Monkeys in Hell's Valley

One of my favorite places is Jigokudani Yaenkoen in Nagano Prefecture. Jigokudani translates as "Hell's Valley," so named because of the harsh winters with heavy snow, steaming hot springs, and steep cliffs.  A troop of wild Japanese macaques has called this area home since the 1960s. More commonly known as snow monkeys, these adorable primates spend much of the harsh winter in the natural hot springs. On recent a trip to the States, I was thrilled to flip through the TV channels and come across a show about the snow monkeys. Who needs to watch a telenovela when you can watch the daily lives of the Japanese macaques?  I can't wait to visit next winter with a new appreciation of life in Hell's Valley.  In the meantime, here are some photos from my last visit. Watch the Nature Snow Monkey's Episode on the PBS Website. 

The Pumpkin and the Sea

There is a small industrial island in the Seto Inland Sea of Japan that has managed to establish itself as a destination for contemporary art.  Naoshima has been featured in several international newspapers and travel magazines.  By some coincidence, I seem to encounter articles about Naoshima frequently when I am traveling abroad.  From the time I first saw photos of Yayoi Kusama's pumpkin installations on Naoshima, I decided that I needed to go.  Although it isn't too far from where I have family in Okayama, it is still not the easiest place to visit.  Unfortunately I only had enough time to visit the pumpkins, but I plan to go back to stay and visit all the museums.

Sushi to Dai for at Tsukiji Market

When I was a little girl, my father would occasionally wake me up around 4am and take me to Tsukiji Fish Market, usually when we had out of town guests.  Today Tsukiji still serves as one of the main tourist attractions in Tokyo, although it is expected to move from it's current location near Ginza to a less central location by 2014.  I was fascinated by the early morning bustle of the market with unusual sea creatures that I have yet to encounter anywhere else in the world.  I never tire of the seemingly secret language of the auctioneers at the Tuna auction.  These days, the market limits the number of observers for the auctions to 120 a day, and you need to register at 5am to get in.  My favorite part of the fish market is the sushi restaurants with the freshest fish you will ever find.  These restaurants originally catered to the Tsukiji market workers and generally open from 5am-2pm. Two of the most famous are Sushi Dai and Daiwa Sushi.  Both have been featured on international travel shows and countless blogs. Sushi Dai is generally known for a friendlier atmosphere and has the longer lines of the two, and happens to be my favorite.  For around 4,000 yen, you can get an Omakase set - it comes with tea, a really rich fish based miso soup, tamago, and 11 pieces of sushi and one roll.  On a recent chilly morning, I arrived at 4:30am and made the first seating.  It is well worth the early wake up, the wait is known to be longer than 3 hours!

The amazing sushi chefs at Sushi Dai

The Tamago is warm and more savory than most

The best O-toro (fatty tuna) I have ever had

Hirame (flounder)

Tai (red snapper)

Aji (mackerel)

Uni (sea urchin)

Buri (yellowtail) 

Akagai (red clam) it was still moving!

Magurozuke (marinated tuna)

Roll, and Shiraebi (baby shrimp)

Anago (sea eel)

The final piece is customer choice.  For me it was O-toro

Don't be fooled, the line continues around the corner (50 deep when we left)

The Tower and the Moon

Growing up in Tokyo, I have always loved the city at night.  My favorite place was the roof of our building.  We were lucky to have a wonderful view of the surrounding area.  I am always surprised to visit one of the city's many observatories and see the ever changing skyline.  My old building is now surrounded by skyscrapers.  When I was growing up, there were only a handful of tall buildings in the whole area.  The latest addition to the skyline is the Tokyo Sky Tree, replacing Tokyo Tower as the city's broadcasting tower.  

My hometown, with Tokyo Sky Tree in the background

As a child, I loved visiting Tokyo Tower for a great view of the city.  These days, my favorite place to see the city is the  Tokyo City View, the observation deck on the 52nd floor of the Mori Building in Roppongi Hills.  Although the admission is 1,500 yen, it can be purchased in advance in local convenience store for 1,200 yen.  You can pay an additional fee to visit the Sky Deck rooftop.  Admission to the City View is included with purchase of a ticket to the Mori Art Museum.  I always watch for exhibitions that I want to see at the museum.  Combining the two attractions is worth the cost of a ticket.

The Tower and the City

The Tower and the Bay

The Tower and the Moon

During my last visit to Tokyo City View, I spent at least an hour watching the sun set by Tokyo Tower. I was shocked to walk around to the other side of the observatory and to see Fuji-san.  The sight is rare, even in the mornings.  I don't think many others expected this either, because the Fuji side of the building was almost empty.  Unfortunately my camera battery was almost dead, and I only got one blurry shot.

Fuji-san and the City

The tragic earthquake and tsunami on March 11, and ongoing problems at the Fukushima Dai-ichi Nuclear Power Plant have resulted in power saving measures that have darkened the Tokyo skyline.  This incredible video shows the slightly darkened, but still vibrant city.

Sign Language

Walk into almost any mall in the U.S. and you're bound to recognize mostly national chain stores and restaurants these days.  Tokyo seems to be heading in the same direction, but you can still find some great independent boutiques and regional Japanese chains with great names.  

ソウル バー ドギーズ

Socks That Make You Smile

Store on Takeshita Dori

Nothing Says High End Fashion Like Freak's

Preppy Fashion Inspired by Santa

Harajuku Boutique

Kamakura, Home to the Best Amish Cuisine

Mrs. Pot's Tea, Coffee and Pie in Kamakura

Specializing in Low Calorie Cuisine

Fashion That Makes You Want to Sing

  

A Day in Odaiba

A day in Odaiba can feel like an escape from the hectic pace of Tokyo.  Built on reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay, it is a short ride on the fully automated Yurikamome line from Shimbashi Station. You can also get to Odaiba by driving or walking over the scenic Rainbow Bridge.  The whole island is a mix of anime inspired futuristic buildings and love hotel inspired kitsch, complete with a replica of the Statue of Liberty on the beach.

Lady Liberty in Odaiba

View from Observatory

One of the most distinctive buildings is the Fuji TV Building.  You can visit the observatory and take a studio tour.

Fuji TV Building

Other than the views, my favorite thing about Odaiba is probably the theme malls.  This is an only in Japan kind of experience with shopping malls designed to look like 1950s Japan (Decks) and 18th century Venice, complete with marble fountains and a changing sky (Venus Fort).  Until recently, there was also a Little Hong Kong with an amazing number of Dim Sum options.

Little Hong Kong

Decks 

Decks

Venus Fort

Central Fountain, Venus Fort 

"Night Time" at Venus Fort

Toyota MEGA WEB is located right next to Venus Fort.  It is a great showroom, and you can even make advance reservations to test drive some vehicles.

Toyota MEGA WEB

Odaiba is also home to entertainment centers including Joypolis, with excellent "virtual" amusement rides and Tokyo Leisure Land with arcade games, bowling, billiards, and karaoke.  For a more relaxing day, you can visit Oedo-Onsen Monogatari, a large Edo-Era themed hot spring complex.  No matter how you spend your time in Odaiba, a sunset or evening view of Rainbow Bridge is one of the best ways to end the day.

Rainbow Bridge